Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
